I was a touch late to the party with the camera today.. I made the call to join the throng of surfers for the early and left shooting til that magical time after 8am when everyone used to disappear to jobs in the city or schools up the hill. I can confirm, it's not a thing anymore with the new WFH/leisurely order of things. Sorry.

The mix of swells with varying directions and periods but similar size seems to be working for us at the moment. I saw fun waves early AND later on as the tide rose. I reckon that big NE swell we had a couple of weeks ago might have done a job on the sand carved a bit of variation into the banks. As life-long surfers we've probably all got our little theories on how the ocean dynamics work... if you can find a copy of this book somewhere (Patagonia Manly used to have it), it's a great insight into how things ACTUALLY work.

Enough rambling from me...

≈
Murray

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