Deep Contrast
These kind of morning's definitely excite the photographer in me more than the surfer. Sure the waves were ok, people were getting fun waves and doing their thing, but I was in it for the light! The sun rose wedged between a dark ocean and low cloud creating a divine quality of light and deep contrast. It's a fleeting kind of light that only happens when the elements come together.
If it was surfing that was on your mind I can tell you the waves were ok. 1-3ft of weaker east swell with hardly a breath of wind. You'd have fun with a little extra foam under your feet.
Enjoy the contrast.
~
Murray