:: B-east

The Easterly wind has been chopping into the surf most of the morning and although there's still 3-4ft of swell it's certainly no postcard.  The wind is forecast to blow from the South-East which might clean the Southern end of the beach if the swing eventuates.   For now, you'll need to put up with some chop on wave if you want to go surf. Gerry Lopez continued to charm the locals when he presented some brief stories of his life and shared insights into surfing.   It was really quite special honor to share an audience with a humble legend that has lived life as an evolving adventure.  His books sold out before the show even began but I'm looking forward to getting my copy and continuing the story.  If you want to get yourself a copy, the Patagonia Manly store only has 100 on pre-order so get in quick.