A lot can happen in 24 hours! Yesterday, with rain set in and an onshore sou-easter, I took the morning off shooting and went surfing. In the hour and a half I was in the water, the waves doubled in size and became unsurfable with a tremendous cross-shore wind and sharp, blinding rain straight to the eye. By lunch yesterday, the sets were pushing triple overhead!

This morning the east swell that's been on the forecast for over a week has arrived. It's a grunty triple overhead and raw ocean. If we get a little tweak in the wind late this afternoon it might start looking the goods. For now, the rip bowl and rapids of the southern corner looked tricky and unpredictable, fun if you've got the skills and nous to find a wave amongst all the moving water.

Sun's out, let's see if the offshore comes and cleans up the joint!

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Murray

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