The Groom
Finally!
After a week of onshore winds, moments of bumpy semi-glass and and a few false starts, the offshore's finally turned up to groom the swell into something presentable. What a difference the offshore makes! It's clean and solid, a couple of notches up in size from yesterday with some hefty barrels around if you're willing to commit.
There's a whole lot of water moving across a complex set of shallow banks, deep gutters and rips. It's heavy! I saw a guy get his board caught on the North Steyne pipe while trying to make it back to shore this morning. Not sure how he ended up there but he'll have plenty of barnacle scatches to remember this morning's session.
The wind's up from the south a bit now and low tide is right on midday; not sure low tide will do the waves any favours... we'll see.
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Murray