Deadman's
The swell's in and it's a solid one! Five and half metres on the buoys at 7am this morning with waves recorded over 12m - Geez! When its this big, Deadman's comes alive and all the madmen brush off their pintails and put themselves in the zone. It's experts only and even the experts have a hard time negotiating the steeps drops, ledges and flat sections. In the three of hours or so I was there, I could count the number of made waves on two hands. Anyone seen The GOAT?
This swell's going hang around over the next few day or so, slowly fading out late into the weekend. Meanwhile the direction of the swell will square up more easterly and the wind's going to swing in our favour while dropping in force. We should be in for a few days of big, surfable waves across the whole east coast.
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Murray