Some days are a little tougher than others to suit up and get out there... this morning was one of those day. )took me 20 minutes and two go's to get out swimming).  But, after a hundred duck dives and 20 mins fighting a rip, when a set wave peaks up and you're the only guy in the spot for a proper 6 foot drainer, that's when the dividends are paid!  

It was tough work out there this morning; tough getting out, tough staying in the spot and tough getting into them... but ample rewards for your effort. 

~

Murray